Joe Trivelli’s recipes for pici in red wine, caserecce with langoustines, squash soup and zuppa di crauti

1 month ago 152

It’s clip to dainty yourself a small amended and instrumentality a gentle attack to feeling good. At Follonica connected the Tuscan coast, determination is simply a bid workers’ canteen astatine the extremity of the line. I’ve nary thought however we recovered it, but my member and I became obsessed with it a decennary ago. Lunch was inexpensive and good, and implicit the years we became affable with the proprietors.

You were expected to wage with credits from your job, but we were capable to wage with cash. For a €5 supplement, you could person thing akin to the langoustine pasta here. It ever struck maine arsenic the astir festive of dishes.

I’ve included 2 soups, each redolent of a chalet supper, and a pasta drunk with reddish vino and chestnuts. These are the heartiest of wintertime dishes that volition spot you done to Christmas.

Pici successful reddish wine

If you conflict to find radicchio usage a mates of heads of chicory instead. Serves 4

chestnuts 200g, successful their ammunition
red bulb 1
garlic 1 clove
olive lipid 3 tbsp
bay leaves 3, fresh, chopped successful half
radicchio 200g
valpolicella ½ bottle, oregon different reddish vino
pici oregon heavy spaghetti/linguine 400g
butter a small
parmesan a handful, grated

Heat the oven to 200C/gas people 6. Score and roast the chestnuts for 10 minutes. They tin besides beryllium microwaved for 3 minutes, but delight bash marque definite you people them decently first. They needn’t beryllium wholly cooked, conscionable peel-able. Peel.

Slice some the bulb and ail precise thinly. Place them successful an open, low-sided pan, ample capable to yet accommodate the pasta, with the olive lipid and a pinch of salt. Set implicit a mean heat. Cook cautiously until wholly soft. I’m good with you adding a splash of h2o astatine immoderate constituent should you consciousness the request and they endanger to catch. Add the bay and crumble the chestnuts in, too. Finely chop the radicchio and disturbance it in. Allow it to wilt and suffer immoderate of its brightness and bitterness. After a mates of minutes, adhd each the vino and crook the vigor up. Simmer for 12 minutes.

Drop the pasta into a ample saucepan of well-salted boiling h2o and navigator for 3 minutes little than the clip stated connected the packet. Drain, reserving plentifulness of the cooking water. Allow the pasta to decorativeness cooking successful the condiment implicit a debased heat. It volition instrumentality connected the colour of the wine. Add the cooking h2o erstwhile necessary, ¼ of a cupful astatine a clip – terminating the cooking disconnected the vigor with freshly crushed achromatic pepper, a generous knob of food and a fistful of grated cheese.

Caserecce with langoustines

 caserecce with langoustines.
‘The astir festive of dishes’: caserecce with langoustines. Photograph: Romas Foord/The Observer

It is important to usage the aforesaid cookware passim arsenic it volition go charged with flavour during the archetypal stage. Fresh full langoustines are a due treat, but you tin substitute with frozen. If they aren’t whole, conscionable the tails, that’s good arsenic agelong arsenic they inactive person the ammunition on. I person tried this with homemade gnocchi too, and it was stratospheric. Serves 4

garlic 2 cloves, thinly sliced
chilli 1, dried
olive lipid 3 tbsp
langoustines 20, full
parsley a tiny clump
white vino 1 glass
tinned plum tomatoes 400g, drained and past chopped
caserecce 400g

In an open, low-sided cookware with a lid, ample capable to yet accommodate the cooked pasta, fry the ail and full chilli successful the olive oil. After a minute, adhd the langoustines and a pinch of salt. Fry for different infinitesimal of two, turning each truthful often. They volition odor wonderful. Now chop and adhd astir of the parsley with the wine, and cover.

Steam for 5 minutes, past crook the vigor down, uncover and region the langoustines to a plate. Add the tomatoes to the cookware and simmer for 20 minutes.

During this time, peel astir of the langoustines, leaving a fewer full for melodramatic effect. Be cautious arsenic the shells are sharp. You tin compression immoderate foodstuff near successful the heads into the sauce.

Cook the pasta successful plentifulness of salted boiling water. Drain, reserving immoderate cooking water, past adhd to the condiment with the langoustines and remaining parsley. Turn everything successful the sauce, thoroughly, connected a debased heat, utilizing splashes of the cooking h2o to loosen if necessary.

Squash and fontina soup

 squash and fontina soup.
‘Part soup, portion fondue’: squash and fontina soup. Photograph: Romas Foord/The Observer

Part soup, portion fondue, this unites immoderate of my favourite wintertime flavours and textures. Fontina isn’t a necessity; emmental, for example, would beryllium conscionable arsenic good. Serves 4

winter squash 1, astir 2kg
olive lipid 1 tbsp
garlic 4 cloves, full but peeled
thyme ½ bunch
bread 2 heavy slices
milk 750ml
nutmeg
fontina 500g

Heat the oven to 180C/gas people 4. Peel the squash, chopped successful half, region the seeds and chop into pieces. Toss successful olive lipid with the ail cloves, thyme branches, brackish and pepper. Roast for astir 30 minutes, oregon until cooked, but not blackened.

Tear the breadstuff into pieces and cook with a small olive lipid for 8 minutes until crisp and golden. Heat your serving bowls.

Bring the beverage to the boil with a grating of nutmeg. Cut the fontina into tiny cubes. Arrange with the breadstuff successful the bowls.

Whisk the roasted squash into the blistery beverage until smooth(ish). Check the seasoning and determination implicit the cheese, which should rapidly melt.

Zuppa di crauti

 zuppa di crauti.
‘A failsafe store-cupboard supper’: zuppa di crauti. Photograph: Romas Foord/The Observer

I bargain sauerkraut alternatively than marque my own. Given that you tin besides usage tinned oregon jarred beans, this is simply a failsafe store-cupboard wintertime supper. If you person other time, and similar the meditative process of soaking and past cooking dried pulses, I person fixed you the enactment below. It volition reward you with superior flavour. Serves 4

dried borlotti beans 250g (or 400g drained, tinned oregon jarred borlotti beans)
fresh bay leaves 2
sage 2 sprigs
garlic 3 peeled cloves, 2 full and 1 chopped
olive lipid 4-5 tbsp
onion 1, diced
pancetta 100g slice, diced
sauerkraut 360g

Soak the dried beans overnight successful acold water.

The adjacent day, bring them to the boil successful plentifulness of caller h2o with the bay, sage, and 2 ail cloves. After 20 minutes, adhd a fewer tablespoons of olive oil. If the beans request topping up with water, bash so, conscionable truthful they’re hardly covered. In different 20 minutes oregon so, the beans should beryllium acceptable – they’ll beryllium heavy and soft. Season.

Meanwhile, vigor different 2 tbsp of lipid successful a dense saucepan and navigator the onion, pancetta and chopped ail clove implicit a mean heat. When soft, adhd the sauerkraut and apical up with acold water. Simmer for 15 minutes, past adhd the beans.

Simmer unneurotic for a fewer minutes earlier putting a lid connected the cookware and allowing to beryllium for 5 minutes for the flavours to get acquainted. Serve.

Joe Trivelli is caput cook astatine the River Cafe, London

The Observer aims to people recipes for seafood rated arsenic sustainable by the Marine Conservation Society’s Good Fish Guide